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Whenever curating a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these culinary giants is a simple salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks the family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their small shop earning such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary honour.